Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
